~Happily.Ever.After~
Socially Awkward Penguin
Original poster
DONATING MEMBER
LURKER MEMBER
FOLKLORE MEMBER
- Invitation Status
- Posting Speed
- Slow As Molasses
- Online Availability
- late. [well... most of my partners seem to think so anyways] ... it varys, best to just check with me ^_^
- Writing Levels
- Intermediate
- Adept
- Advanced
- Prestige
- Douche
- Adaptable
- Preferred Character Gender
- Male
- Female
- Primarily Prefer Female
- Genres
- Slice of Life is my favorites, but I also love fandom based* and country based rps. I'm open to trying most things, but there are a couple that I won't do.
*I'm not interested in fandoms I don't know and I am not interested in playing canon characters. I only play OCs.
[bg=silver]
Streamstar ~ 25 Moons ~ Lives; 9 ~ Disney
Stormpaw ~ Stormgaze ~ 6 Moons ~ Happily
Shadowclaw ~ 31 Moons ~ Happily
Lightningpaw ~ Lightningstrike ~ 11 Moons ~ Disney
Firestorm ~ 33 Moons ~ Happily
Sagepaw ~ Sagewing ~ 6 Moons ~ Disney
Gingerheart ~ 33 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Happily
Shadowfall ~ 28 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Disney
Swirlpelt ~ 24 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Disney
Sagefoot ~ 24 Moons ~ Apprentice; Mousepaw ~ Disney
Streampelt ~ 23 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Disney
Petalnose ~ 23 Moons ~ Apprentice; Harepaw ~ Disney
Tawnyscar ~ 23 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Happily
Stripetail ~ 22 Moons ~ Apprentice; Lichenpaw ~ Disney
Blazestorm ~ 22 Moons ~ Apprentice; Fallpaw ~ Happily
Duskfall ~ 22 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Happily
Brambleheart ~ 22 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Disney
Dawngaze ~ 21 Moons ~ Apprentice; Briarpaw ~ Happily
Fireleaf ~ 21 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Happily
Sandheart ~ 21 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Happily
Harepaw ~ Harestrike ~ 11 Moons ~ Mentor; Petalnose ~ Happily
Briarpaw ~ Briarheart ~ 9 Moons ~ Mentor; Dawngaze ~ Disney
Lichenpaw ~ Lichenclaw ~ 8 Moons ~ Mentor; Stripetail ~ Happily
Fallpaw ~ Fallheart ~ 6 Moons ~ Mentor; Blazestorm ~ Disney
Mousepaw ~ Mousestep ~ 6 Moons ~ Mentor; Sagefoot ~ Happily
Bluepelt ~ 23 Moons ~ Disney
Unborn Kit 1 ~ Disney
Unborn Kit 2 ~ Happily
Snowheart ~ 22 Moons ~ Happily
Juniperkit ~ Junipertail ~ 0.75 Moons ~ Disney
Rosekit ~ Rosefall ~ 0.75 Moons ~ Disney
Bramblekit ~ Brambleclaw ~ 0.75 Moons ~ Disney
Sandkit ~ Sandswipe ~ 0.75 Moons ~ Disney
Moonflower ~ 21 Moons ~ Disney
Ivykit ~ Ivywing ~ 1.5 Moons ~ Happily
Dovekit ~ Dovesong ~ 1.5 Moons ~ Happily
Thornkit ~ Thornleg ~ 1.5 Moons ~ Happily
Fuzzkit ~ Fuzzpelt ~ 1.5 Moons ~ Happily
None Yet
Shadowclaw & Moonflower are Mates (kits; Thornkit, Fuzzkit, Ivykit, Dovekit)
Firestorm & Bluepelt are Forbidden Mates (expecting kits)
Sagefoot & Gingerheart are Mates
Streamstar & Snowheart are Mates (with forbidden kits; Juniperkit, Sandkit, Bramblekit, Rosekit)
Blazestorm & Petalnose are Mates
Duskfall & Brambleheart are Mates
Stripetail & Dawngaze are Crushing on each other
Fireleaf & Swirlpelt are Crushing on each other
Harepaw is Crushing on Briarpaw
Shadowfall & Sandheart are Mates (kits; Lichenpaw)
Streampelt & Tawnyscar will Eventually Like each other
Lightningpaw is Crushing on Mousepaw
Mousepaw will Eventually Like Fallpaw
Stormpaw is Crushing on Lightningpaw[/bg]
[bg=#bad0d1]
Breezeclan - A clan known for their speed. They occupy the territory to the south and east borders of Streamclan. They are usually a docile group of cats, but can get greedy, especially when it comes to their rabbits and squirrels. Their territory is cut in half by a new thunderpath that seems to be the home of an uncomfortable amount of two-leg monsters.
Fernclan - These cats were once a part of Streamclan... and thus have many of the same traits, hunting and fighting techniques. It also makes them both Streamclan's closest Ally and worst enemy. Fernclan is the newest clan and mainly serves those who are overly ambitious. This clan shares a border with both Darkclan and Streamclan, sitting north of both of them.
Darkclan - Darkclan cats love their undergrowth. They lurk in the shadows rather easily and generally have darker colored pelts. While their territory is the hardest to navigate thanks to the thick amounts of bushes, bramble thickets, tall grass and trees it is also one of the prettiest in certain areas. The river that begins in Streamclan wanders through the entire Darkclan territory, including straying into their camp. As it enters the territory it becomes shallower and narrower, and ends about five fox-lengths past the Outer Darkclan Border, in what most cats consider Rogue and Loner territory.
Kittypets - Though it's rare to find kitty-pets around the clans, the occasional one does wander into clan life every so often. Normally though they stay within the confines of their two-leg's dens.
Loners - These cats are normally friendly and willing to help the clans, but often feel that clan life just isn't for them. They generally stay wherever they please, outside of clan territory of course.
Rogues - Rogues are the Loner's hostile and not so friendly or helpful counterparts. Most of the time Rogues that stray onto clan land are up to no good and need to be chased out and back past Darkclan territory where most of the Rogues seem to stay.
Mice
Voles
Water Voles
Muskrats
Sparrows
Trout
Carp
Minnow
Water Shrews
Squirrels
Finches
Thrushes
Crows
Pigeons/Doves
Starlings
Magpies
Pheasants
Wrens
Robins
Eggs
Rabbits
Hares
Snakes/Adders
Lizards
Frogs
Toads
Shrews
Alder Bark - When chewed it relieves tooth pain.
Alfalfa - When chewed it helps prevent tooth decay.
Aloe Vera - The goo inside the leaves can be mixed into topical poultices or applied directly to the skin issue.
Ash Tree Roots/Branches - When chewed and applied to bite wounds of poisonous animals it helps to fight the poison.
Beech Leaves - The large broad leaves are good for carrying other herbs.
Bindweed Stems - Used to fasten sticks to broken limbs, helping keep the healing bones in place.
Blackberry Leaves - When chewed into a pulp and applied to bee stings it helps reduce the swelling.
Borage Leaves - When used green it can be eaten to help produce milk in nursing queens and reduce fever. It must not be used if dried.
Bramble Twigs - If chewed into a fine syrup then ingested it helps to sleep.
Rosemary Blossoms - Used as a pulp to help heal eye infections and cover eye wounds.
Burdock Root - When chewed into a pulp it can be applied to wounds to help prevent infection.
Catmint - When eaten it can help to relax a cat. It is also the best treatment for greencouch (and whitecough).
Celandine - When eaten it can help to strengthen weak eyes
Chamomile - The leaves and flowers can be eaten to help calm and soothe a cat.
Chervil - The leaves can be made into a poultice to help treat infected wounds while chewing on the roots helps with bellyache.
Chickweed - It can be eaten to help treat greencough. Though not as powerful as Catmint it is more common to find.
Cobwebs - Used to stop heavy bleeding. They aren't used for more minor injuries as they easily provide infections.
Coltsfoot - It can be eaten by kits to help cure and prevent kittencough. The leaves can be chewed to help with shortness of breath.
Comfrey - Used as a poultice with other herbs to help heal broken bones.
Daisy Leaves - When chewed into a paste and applied to affected it can provide some relief to aching joints.
Dandelion Leaves - When eaten they can calm a cat.
Deathberries - Also known as Yew, even consuming just one bite of these small berries can kill a cat.
Dock - It can be chewed up and applied to scratches and rat bites to help soothe them and prevent infection. It also makes the cat's coat extremely slippery.
Oak Leaf - When dried it can be consumed to help stop infections
Fennel Stalks - When the stalk is broken the juice can be squeezed into the recipient's mouth to help reduce hip pain.
Feverfew - The leaves can be eaten to reduce fever, help relieve stomach and head pain and help cure simple colds.
Foxglove - While eating the seeds can help the heart, ingesting even one of the seeds also usually results in paralysis and heart failure, resulting in death more so than healing and should really not be used at all unless in a last-resort scenario. The leaves can be used to help stop bleeding quickly on deep, large wounds.
Ginger - When eaten it can help relieve coughs and asthma.
Goldenrod - It can be made into a poultice and applied to wounds or eaten to help relieve pain and stiffness in joints.
Grass - eaten to help cure bellyache. Also used to make a cat throw up.
Gumweed - Used as a poultice to help close wounds and prevent infection, allowing the wound to heal quicker.
Holly Berries - A poison that, while it won't kill a healthy, grown cat will still make them sick. It can kill kits, sick cats and elders.
Honey - Can be eaten to help soothe sore throats and recover from smoke inhalation. It also is given to kits a lot after they are given other herbs as it has a pleasant taste.
Horsetail - The leaves can be chewed into a poultice and applied to infected wounds, and the sap can be used with cobwebs to help stop heavy bleeding.
Iris - The petals can be used to help with breathing during birth, and can be eaten by kits with sore throats. Except for the petals, all other parts of the plant are poisonous.
Ivy - Can be eaten to help calm a cat and applied to small cuts and scrapes to help heal. It can also be eaten to help reduce coughing but is usually a last resort.
Juniper Berries - The berries can be eaten to relieve bellyache. The leaves can be consumed help with coughs and breathing issues. The plant can also be used to help treat shock.
Lavender - Leaves and flowers can be eaten to help with pain in the head and throat as well as helping to cure fever. The fresh flowers have a sweet, calming scent and are used to help relieve cats and cover the scent of death.
Herb - Use
Marigold - Can be chewed into a pulp and applied to wounds to stop infection. It can soothe cracked pawpads, and if eaten it will induce vomiting, allowing a cat to expel some poisons from the body.
Milkweed - Can be applied to sores and burns. Not to be eaten or used around ears and eyes as it is poisonous.
Moss - Used to soak up liquid and for bedding.
Mouse Bile - Used to remove ticks. Don't ingest it or you'll have a terrible taste in your mouth.
Nettle - The leaves can be applied to areas to help reduce swelling. The seeds can be swallowed to counter poison.
Parsley - Can be eaten to stop bellyache and also to stop milk-flow in queens
Poppy Seeds - Can be eaten to numb pain, distress, shock and provide a good night's sleep. Do not give to kits. It's too powerful and they won't wake up.
Raspberry - When eaten during kitten it helps dull the pain and stop bleeding.
Rush - Used to bind broken bones
Sorrel - Used to soothe scratches
Tansy - The flower be eaten to treat coughs and the leaves chewed to relieve joint pain. Queens should never eat Tansy as it causes miscarriages.
Thyme - Can be eaten to help calm an anxious cat and to help bring about restful sleep.
Tormentil - When chewed into a paste and applied to a poisoned wound it helps to expel the poisons.
Water Mint - It is the best treatment for bellyache. When eaten it has a pleasant minty taste.
Wild Garlic - Though smelly, when rolled in it can help keep infection out.
Willow Tree - Water from beneath the bark of the flowering willow may be dripped into the eyes to help clear blurriness of vision. It may also be applied to dry patches of skin to sooth itches. Small amounts of Willow Bark may be consumed to ease pain, act against inflammation, and to ease diarrhea and fevers.
Yarrow- Used to make a cat vomit and expel poisons from the body. Entire plant should be consumed to induce vomiting. Entire plant should be chewed and applied to wounds to relieve pain and prevent infection. Only give it to cats that ate something poisonous. Sometimes when cats are really sick yarrow is used to make the patient vomit out the sickness. That only works sometimes. This herb can also be used as an ointment, used to soften paw pads
Back Kick - Explosive surprise move to catch opponent from behind. Judge opponent's distance from you carefully, then lash out with your back legs, taking weight on your front paws.
Belly Rake - A fight stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws across the soft flesh of opponent's belly. If you're pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control.
Front Paw Blow - Frontal attack. Bring your front paw down hard on your opponent's head. Claws sheathed.
Frontal Paw Strike - Frontal Attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.
Killing Bite - A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. Used only as a last resort.
Leap-And-Hold - Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto the opponent's back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponent's paws and in the position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way. It was deployed to great effect against BloodClan's deputy, Bone. Watch for the drop-and-roll countermove, and try to jump free before you get squashed.
Partner Fighting - Warriors who have trained and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the others back while fending and opponent on either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers.
Play Dead - Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxes his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent and put you in an attacking position.
Scruff Shake - Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponent's neck; then shake violently until she or he is too rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.
Teeth Grip - Target your opponents extremities-the legs, tail, scruff, or ears-and sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap-and-hold except your claws are free to fight.
Upright Lock - Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. Rear up on back legs and bring full weight down on opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him or her under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so this move requires great strength and speed.
Ambush Drop - If it is possible to get above your opponent in a tree or higher ground, this move may prove very useful for an ambush and an advantage at the beginning of a fight. The element of surprise is priceless, and this move allows for a quick, direct attack. Climbing into a tree branch or even on the side of a tree to twist and fall onto the back of an intruder with claws unsheathed can give you a good position to give a nasty bite.
Drop-And-Roll - Counter move for the leap-and-hold, this move is valuable when fighting a smaller or equal sized opponent who has a strong grip. Roll over and try to smother or squash them to loosen their grip. Be prepared for a quick recovery so as not to make yourself vulnerable.
Drop-And-Kick - Counter move to the upright lock, this move requires the knowledge that your opponent will be using the upright lock -- watch for signs that your opponent is confident in their size and strength. When the opponent moves into the upright lock position with both paws raised, quickly move under them and strike up with powerful back legs. Preformed without enough speed this move is disastrous, and should only be used with confident fighters.
Dodge/Defense Roll - A common but effective strategy for a quick cat to disarm an opponent and avoid attack. Watch an opponent's eyes carefully to anticipate the target, and leap out of the way when they strike. || Below the opponent's move can strike, duck your head and roll sideways and leap up. It's not an offensive move, but a quick move with a fluid recovery can catch your opponent off guard.
Unbalance - This move is a natural one aimed at disarming an opponent by knocking them down or making them stumble. It's a straightforward attack, and it's necessary not to betray your target with your eyes. Target legs and shoulders to unbalance with a paw strike, backlegs, a muzzle, or go in with a powerful head butt.
Back Leg Rake - The back legs are less mobile then the front, but have a lot of power, which makes them useful weapons of attack. This move requires pinning the opponent down by the shoulders and clawing their back with the hind legs.
Badger Defense - This advanced move is used for warding of badgers and fighting them, and is a combination of power and wits which takes advantage of the lumbering slowness of a badger. It requires balance and speed. Jump high to avoid a badger's claws and land behind, spinning and biting. An extra bit of attack can be added with the slash of unsheathed claws during the spin.
Reverse Reared Strike - This is another unusual advanced battle move using a combination of the front paw strike, upright lock, back kick and a powerful jump. Kicking behind with the back legs and leaping backward onto the front paws (which acts as an automatic dodge for the drop-and kick move) and raking down with a powerful front strike.
Environmental Strategies - A wise and quick-thinking warrior can use their surroundings to their own advantage, be it backing a warrior into a thick bramble bush, suffocating an opponent with a collar by pulling on it, or puncturing an enemy throat with a sharp stick[/bg]
Streamstar ~ 25 Moons ~ Lives; 9 ~ Disney
Stormpaw ~ Stormgaze ~ 6 Moons ~ Happily
Shadowclaw ~ 31 Moons ~ Happily
Lightningpaw ~ Lightningstrike ~ 11 Moons ~ Disney
Firestorm ~ 33 Moons ~ Happily
Sagepaw ~ Sagewing ~ 6 Moons ~ Disney
Gingerheart ~ 33 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Happily
Shadowfall ~ 28 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Disney
Swirlpelt ~ 24 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Disney
Sagefoot ~ 24 Moons ~ Apprentice; Mousepaw ~ Disney
Streampelt ~ 23 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Disney
Petalnose ~ 23 Moons ~ Apprentice; Harepaw ~ Disney
Tawnyscar ~ 23 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Happily
Stripetail ~ 22 Moons ~ Apprentice; Lichenpaw ~ Disney
Blazestorm ~ 22 Moons ~ Apprentice; Fallpaw ~ Happily
Duskfall ~ 22 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Happily
Brambleheart ~ 22 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Disney
Dawngaze ~ 21 Moons ~ Apprentice; Briarpaw ~ Happily
Fireleaf ~ 21 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Happily
Sandheart ~ 21 Moons ~ Apprentice; None ~ Happily
Harepaw ~ Harestrike ~ 11 Moons ~ Mentor; Petalnose ~ Happily
Briarpaw ~ Briarheart ~ 9 Moons ~ Mentor; Dawngaze ~ Disney
Lichenpaw ~ Lichenclaw ~ 8 Moons ~ Mentor; Stripetail ~ Happily
Fallpaw ~ Fallheart ~ 6 Moons ~ Mentor; Blazestorm ~ Disney
Mousepaw ~ Mousestep ~ 6 Moons ~ Mentor; Sagefoot ~ Happily
Bluepelt ~ 23 Moons ~ Disney
Unborn Kit 1 ~ Disney
Unborn Kit 2 ~ Happily
Snowheart ~ 22 Moons ~ Happily
Juniperkit ~ Junipertail ~ 0.75 Moons ~ Disney
Rosekit ~ Rosefall ~ 0.75 Moons ~ Disney
Bramblekit ~ Brambleclaw ~ 0.75 Moons ~ Disney
Sandkit ~ Sandswipe ~ 0.75 Moons ~ Disney
Moonflower ~ 21 Moons ~ Disney
Ivykit ~ Ivywing ~ 1.5 Moons ~ Happily
Dovekit ~ Dovesong ~ 1.5 Moons ~ Happily
Thornkit ~ Thornleg ~ 1.5 Moons ~ Happily
Fuzzkit ~ Fuzzpelt ~ 1.5 Moons ~ Happily
None Yet
Shadowclaw & Moonflower are Mates (kits; Thornkit, Fuzzkit, Ivykit, Dovekit)
Firestorm & Bluepelt are Forbidden Mates (expecting kits)
Sagefoot & Gingerheart are Mates
Streamstar & Snowheart are Mates (with forbidden kits; Juniperkit, Sandkit, Bramblekit, Rosekit)
Blazestorm & Petalnose are Mates
Duskfall & Brambleheart are Mates
Stripetail & Dawngaze are Crushing on each other
Fireleaf & Swirlpelt are Crushing on each other
Harepaw is Crushing on Briarpaw
Shadowfall & Sandheart are Mates (kits; Lichenpaw)
Streampelt & Tawnyscar will Eventually Like each other
Lightningpaw is Crushing on Mousepaw
Mousepaw will Eventually Like Fallpaw
Stormpaw is Crushing on Lightningpaw[/bg]
[bg=#bad0d1]
Breezeclan - A clan known for their speed. They occupy the territory to the south and east borders of Streamclan. They are usually a docile group of cats, but can get greedy, especially when it comes to their rabbits and squirrels. Their territory is cut in half by a new thunderpath that seems to be the home of an uncomfortable amount of two-leg monsters.
Fernclan - These cats were once a part of Streamclan... and thus have many of the same traits, hunting and fighting techniques. It also makes them both Streamclan's closest Ally and worst enemy. Fernclan is the newest clan and mainly serves those who are overly ambitious. This clan shares a border with both Darkclan and Streamclan, sitting north of both of them.
Darkclan - Darkclan cats love their undergrowth. They lurk in the shadows rather easily and generally have darker colored pelts. While their territory is the hardest to navigate thanks to the thick amounts of bushes, bramble thickets, tall grass and trees it is also one of the prettiest in certain areas. The river that begins in Streamclan wanders through the entire Darkclan territory, including straying into their camp. As it enters the territory it becomes shallower and narrower, and ends about five fox-lengths past the Outer Darkclan Border, in what most cats consider Rogue and Loner territory.
Kittypets - Though it's rare to find kitty-pets around the clans, the occasional one does wander into clan life every so often. Normally though they stay within the confines of their two-leg's dens.
Loners - These cats are normally friendly and willing to help the clans, but often feel that clan life just isn't for them. They generally stay wherever they please, outside of clan territory of course.
Rogues - Rogues are the Loner's hostile and not so friendly or helpful counterparts. Most of the time Rogues that stray onto clan land are up to no good and need to be chased out and back past Darkclan territory where most of the Rogues seem to stay.
Mice
Voles
Water Voles
Muskrats
Sparrows
Trout
Carp
Minnow
Water Shrews
Squirrels
Finches
Thrushes
Crows
Pigeons/Doves
Starlings
Magpies
Pheasants
Wrens
Robins
Eggs
Rabbits
Hares
Snakes/Adders
Lizards
Frogs
Toads
Shrews
Alder Bark - When chewed it relieves tooth pain.
Alfalfa - When chewed it helps prevent tooth decay.
Aloe Vera - The goo inside the leaves can be mixed into topical poultices or applied directly to the skin issue.
Ash Tree Roots/Branches - When chewed and applied to bite wounds of poisonous animals it helps to fight the poison.
Beech Leaves - The large broad leaves are good for carrying other herbs.
Bindweed Stems - Used to fasten sticks to broken limbs, helping keep the healing bones in place.
Blackberry Leaves - When chewed into a pulp and applied to bee stings it helps reduce the swelling.
Borage Leaves - When used green it can be eaten to help produce milk in nursing queens and reduce fever. It must not be used if dried.
Bramble Twigs - If chewed into a fine syrup then ingested it helps to sleep.
Rosemary Blossoms - Used as a pulp to help heal eye infections and cover eye wounds.
Burdock Root - When chewed into a pulp it can be applied to wounds to help prevent infection.
Catmint - When eaten it can help to relax a cat. It is also the best treatment for greencouch (and whitecough).
Celandine - When eaten it can help to strengthen weak eyes
Chamomile - The leaves and flowers can be eaten to help calm and soothe a cat.
Chervil - The leaves can be made into a poultice to help treat infected wounds while chewing on the roots helps with bellyache.
Chickweed - It can be eaten to help treat greencough. Though not as powerful as Catmint it is more common to find.
Cobwebs - Used to stop heavy bleeding. They aren't used for more minor injuries as they easily provide infections.
Coltsfoot - It can be eaten by kits to help cure and prevent kittencough. The leaves can be chewed to help with shortness of breath.
Comfrey - Used as a poultice with other herbs to help heal broken bones.
Daisy Leaves - When chewed into a paste and applied to affected it can provide some relief to aching joints.
Dandelion Leaves - When eaten they can calm a cat.
Deathberries - Also known as Yew, even consuming just one bite of these small berries can kill a cat.
Dock - It can be chewed up and applied to scratches and rat bites to help soothe them and prevent infection. It also makes the cat's coat extremely slippery.
Oak Leaf - When dried it can be consumed to help stop infections
Fennel Stalks - When the stalk is broken the juice can be squeezed into the recipient's mouth to help reduce hip pain.
Feverfew - The leaves can be eaten to reduce fever, help relieve stomach and head pain and help cure simple colds.
Foxglove - While eating the seeds can help the heart, ingesting even one of the seeds also usually results in paralysis and heart failure, resulting in death more so than healing and should really not be used at all unless in a last-resort scenario. The leaves can be used to help stop bleeding quickly on deep, large wounds.
Ginger - When eaten it can help relieve coughs and asthma.
Goldenrod - It can be made into a poultice and applied to wounds or eaten to help relieve pain and stiffness in joints.
Grass - eaten to help cure bellyache. Also used to make a cat throw up.
Gumweed - Used as a poultice to help close wounds and prevent infection, allowing the wound to heal quicker.
Holly Berries - A poison that, while it won't kill a healthy, grown cat will still make them sick. It can kill kits, sick cats and elders.
Honey - Can be eaten to help soothe sore throats and recover from smoke inhalation. It also is given to kits a lot after they are given other herbs as it has a pleasant taste.
Horsetail - The leaves can be chewed into a poultice and applied to infected wounds, and the sap can be used with cobwebs to help stop heavy bleeding.
Iris - The petals can be used to help with breathing during birth, and can be eaten by kits with sore throats. Except for the petals, all other parts of the plant are poisonous.
Ivy - Can be eaten to help calm a cat and applied to small cuts and scrapes to help heal. It can also be eaten to help reduce coughing but is usually a last resort.
Juniper Berries - The berries can be eaten to relieve bellyache. The leaves can be consumed help with coughs and breathing issues. The plant can also be used to help treat shock.
Lavender - Leaves and flowers can be eaten to help with pain in the head and throat as well as helping to cure fever. The fresh flowers have a sweet, calming scent and are used to help relieve cats and cover the scent of death.
Herb - Use
Marigold - Can be chewed into a pulp and applied to wounds to stop infection. It can soothe cracked pawpads, and if eaten it will induce vomiting, allowing a cat to expel some poisons from the body.
Milkweed - Can be applied to sores and burns. Not to be eaten or used around ears and eyes as it is poisonous.
Moss - Used to soak up liquid and for bedding.
Mouse Bile - Used to remove ticks. Don't ingest it or you'll have a terrible taste in your mouth.
Nettle - The leaves can be applied to areas to help reduce swelling. The seeds can be swallowed to counter poison.
Parsley - Can be eaten to stop bellyache and also to stop milk-flow in queens
Poppy Seeds - Can be eaten to numb pain, distress, shock and provide a good night's sleep. Do not give to kits. It's too powerful and they won't wake up.
Raspberry - When eaten during kitten it helps dull the pain and stop bleeding.
Rush - Used to bind broken bones
Sorrel - Used to soothe scratches
Tansy - The flower be eaten to treat coughs and the leaves chewed to relieve joint pain. Queens should never eat Tansy as it causes miscarriages.
Thyme - Can be eaten to help calm an anxious cat and to help bring about restful sleep.
Tormentil - When chewed into a paste and applied to a poisoned wound it helps to expel the poisons.
Water Mint - It is the best treatment for bellyache. When eaten it has a pleasant minty taste.
Wild Garlic - Though smelly, when rolled in it can help keep infection out.
Willow Tree - Water from beneath the bark of the flowering willow may be dripped into the eyes to help clear blurriness of vision. It may also be applied to dry patches of skin to sooth itches. Small amounts of Willow Bark may be consumed to ease pain, act against inflammation, and to ease diarrhea and fevers.
Yarrow- Used to make a cat vomit and expel poisons from the body. Entire plant should be consumed to induce vomiting. Entire plant should be chewed and applied to wounds to relieve pain and prevent infection. Only give it to cats that ate something poisonous. Sometimes when cats are really sick yarrow is used to make the patient vomit out the sickness. That only works sometimes. This herb can also be used as an ointment, used to soften paw pads
Back Kick - Explosive surprise move to catch opponent from behind. Judge opponent's distance from you carefully, then lash out with your back legs, taking weight on your front paws.
Belly Rake - A fight stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws across the soft flesh of opponent's belly. If you're pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control.
Front Paw Blow - Frontal attack. Bring your front paw down hard on your opponent's head. Claws sheathed.
Frontal Paw Strike - Frontal Attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.
Killing Bite - A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. Used only as a last resort.
Leap-And-Hold - Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto the opponent's back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponent's paws and in the position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way. It was deployed to great effect against BloodClan's deputy, Bone. Watch for the drop-and-roll countermove, and try to jump free before you get squashed.
Partner Fighting - Warriors who have trained and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the others back while fending and opponent on either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers.
Play Dead - Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxes his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent and put you in an attacking position.
Scruff Shake - Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponent's neck; then shake violently until she or he is too rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.
Teeth Grip - Target your opponents extremities-the legs, tail, scruff, or ears-and sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap-and-hold except your claws are free to fight.
Upright Lock - Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. Rear up on back legs and bring full weight down on opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him or her under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so this move requires great strength and speed.
Ambush Drop - If it is possible to get above your opponent in a tree or higher ground, this move may prove very useful for an ambush and an advantage at the beginning of a fight. The element of surprise is priceless, and this move allows for a quick, direct attack. Climbing into a tree branch or even on the side of a tree to twist and fall onto the back of an intruder with claws unsheathed can give you a good position to give a nasty bite.
Drop-And-Roll - Counter move for the leap-and-hold, this move is valuable when fighting a smaller or equal sized opponent who has a strong grip. Roll over and try to smother or squash them to loosen their grip. Be prepared for a quick recovery so as not to make yourself vulnerable.
Drop-And-Kick - Counter move to the upright lock, this move requires the knowledge that your opponent will be using the upright lock -- watch for signs that your opponent is confident in their size and strength. When the opponent moves into the upright lock position with both paws raised, quickly move under them and strike up with powerful back legs. Preformed without enough speed this move is disastrous, and should only be used with confident fighters.
Dodge/Defense Roll - A common but effective strategy for a quick cat to disarm an opponent and avoid attack. Watch an opponent's eyes carefully to anticipate the target, and leap out of the way when they strike. || Below the opponent's move can strike, duck your head and roll sideways and leap up. It's not an offensive move, but a quick move with a fluid recovery can catch your opponent off guard.
Unbalance - This move is a natural one aimed at disarming an opponent by knocking them down or making them stumble. It's a straightforward attack, and it's necessary not to betray your target with your eyes. Target legs and shoulders to unbalance with a paw strike, backlegs, a muzzle, or go in with a powerful head butt.
Back Leg Rake - The back legs are less mobile then the front, but have a lot of power, which makes them useful weapons of attack. This move requires pinning the opponent down by the shoulders and clawing their back with the hind legs.
Badger Defense - This advanced move is used for warding of badgers and fighting them, and is a combination of power and wits which takes advantage of the lumbering slowness of a badger. It requires balance and speed. Jump high to avoid a badger's claws and land behind, spinning and biting. An extra bit of attack can be added with the slash of unsheathed claws during the spin.
Reverse Reared Strike - This is another unusual advanced battle move using a combination of the front paw strike, upright lock, back kick and a powerful jump. Kicking behind with the back legs and leaping backward onto the front paws (which acts as an automatic dodge for the drop-and kick move) and raking down with a powerful front strike.
Environmental Strategies - A wise and quick-thinking warrior can use their surroundings to their own advantage, be it backing a warrior into a thick bramble bush, suffocating an opponent with a collar by pulling on it, or puncturing an enemy throat with a sharp stick[/bg]